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A Free Bean

Adventures in life (usually climbing!)

Author

Jenny

Fly me to the moon; Why aren’t we ashamed of our obsession with Space?

Many of us have grown up with Space Science raised high on a pedestal; the pinnacle of humankinds achievements. I, for one, never really questioned this. And yet when I read an article juxtaposing Elon Musks airy aspirations with problems on earth, right here, right now – I had to change my mind. I’m not saying we shouldn’t fund space. But I am arguing that we all need to engage in the question as to what proportion of our resources should be focused on this most enthralling of sciences.

I love space.

MilkyWay from the Brecon Beacons – Flamstead Astronomical Society

At my parents house, on a cold autumn night, you can see the soft cloud of the Milkyway reaching across the sky. It’s difficult to make out because of all the thousands of other stars glittering in the chill. When I was given money to go travelling I spent it on a telescope through which I could see the coloured bands on the giant Jupiter. I’ve taught Physics for nine years, Astronomy GCSE for two, spending my time waxing lyrical about the Apollo missions, engaging students with the mysteries of dark matter and black holes.

I really do love space.

Then I read ‘Whitey on the Moon’. This  article, written by Andrew Russell and Lee Vince, assigned reading for the ‘Responsible Science and Innovation’ module on my MSc, was about Elon Musk and the irresponsibility of the space race.

I’d already started questioning some of my instinctual feelings about the allocation of science funding when reading Dan Sarewitz’s ‘Saving Science’. I found the Sarewitz piece very confrontational but it raised a number of serious points about the benefits of goal orientated research. It made me think.

Vince and Russell’s piece however, that was a little too close to the bone. I wasn’t sure about how I felt and I needed to examine the debate more closely.

Our love of space hasn’t sprung up since our ability to get there. Throughout history we have looked to the heavens; for our myths and legends, our understanding of how the world began and where we came from. It has been the seat of the Gods, a place of divine inspiration and our source of knowledge. Then in the 17th century Kepler wrote of a trip to the moon and how the earth would look from there – we began to imagine space travel (and Keplers mother got arrested for being a witch). This really takes off with Science fiction and travelling into Space to develop a new Utopia (for a very quick introduction see Science Fiction Encyclopedias ‘Space Flight’).

Science fiction raised its questions about space travel investigating dystopias alongside utopias. People were worried about it but Space allowed this, it gave room for the imagination. Come the Apollo missions, Space was the thing we all were encouraged to love. In the Brainpickings blog Michelle Legro reviews the book ‘Marketing the Moon’ which disseminates NASA the brand and how they ‘sold Space to America’

This is where things start to get a bit worrying. This was one hell of a marketing campaign, you can see echoes of it in the education curriculum of today – we still describe the space race, the Apollo missions and the freedom of science to investigate. But this campaign covered up the fact that at the time there was a considerable lack of support for the race to the moon.


This cartoon appeared in newspapers on May 20, 1961, just days before President Kennedy declared a Moon landing to be a national priority.
Credit:
© T. Stockett, courtesy of Afro-American Newspapers Archives and Research Cente

When Vince and Russell quote their articles namesake, the spoken poem ‘Whitey on the Moon’, I can’t help but recall my own education. I was taught all about the Apollo missions, I remember making cardboard rockets. But American civil rights was an unknown part of history until many years later.

I can’t help but blanche at the financial figures, when you consider the lack of health care and the social poverty that still isn’t resolved. I think about the recent space mission with Tim Peake – how exciting it was to have a British Astronaut in space. But I don’t remember anyone being asked? The House of Commons ‘Science and Technology Committee’ report referencing his flight doesn’t give a breakdown but gives the UK’s total contribution to the European Space Agency at £240 million.

But how many students will now study physics because Tim Peake went to the moon? Can we put a monetary value on that? Is that the point?

Manchester University reports the ‘Brian Cox effect’ as a 52% rise in applications to study Physics since 2008. More people have become involved in the sciences because of a fascination with space. This doesn’t touch on the ‘ground up’ technologies and data (including climate data) gained from the space programs.

If we are to develop science, to engage future scientists, to develop the knowledge that can then be used to solve the world’s problems – surely we must allow science to dream, to allow it a place where the imagination can lead to new discoveries.

There is a problem with this though; in the World Government Summit in Dubai the following (approx 20:38mins) is stated:

“Make sure researchers don’t get carried away — scientists get so engrossed in their work they don’t realise the ramifications of what they are doing.”

And the speaker? Elon Musk.

He was referring to work on A.I. but the same could easily be said about Space Flight and Elon Musk.

Vince and Russell discuss not only the financial implications but the rich and powerful divorcing themselves from the world’s problems; returning to that science fiction trope of creating a new utopia for ‘humanity’ (the very rich part of it.)

We will not solve the problems of the here and now, let alone the future problems of climate change, resource depletion or even the possible ‘technological disaster of A.I’ (an open question in itself); if we are spending our time and money dreaming of creating a world that doesn’t exist.

Has all of this changed my mind about space? No it hasn’t.

I still love space. I still think we should invest in space, in particle physics and in other esoteric ‘pure research’ areas of science. But dreams can’t be funded to the detriment of the community that is living life right now. Some of these priorities are considerably less enthralling, but that doesn’t mean the work doesn’t need to be done.

Choices need to be made in regards the allocation of resources and everyone; the poor, the rich, the scientist, the man at arms, everyone must engage and consider the priorities.

Science should be allowed to dream, but not to sleep whilst the world around it crumbles away

 

My combined image of the Supermoon Lunar eclipse 2015 – got up at 4am to take these…

 

End note: I’m open to discussion as to the perceived dangers of A.I. Elon Musk apparently isn’t (although is reported by wired as having invested in DeepMind?!.) That’s too deep a question right now. What’s making me laugh / frightened though is the question ‘Does Musk think he’s faster than Google?’ Are we going to witness a weird race of the elite where Elon Musk and his friends try to escape before Googles DeepMind decides to harness their brains for the future good of mankind….

 

Who is teaching us Science?

My MSc course is, unsurprisingly, leading me down internet rabbit holes…

I was asked to bring a science ‘blog’ to our next course session and I had a problem. I don’t really think I read Science blogs.

This could be a fundamental issue in regards the course I’m doing and my particular area of interest ‘the public understanding of science’ if I’m not actually accessing the same information myself. So… start to hunt for science blogs.

But I felt a bit of a fraud. I get the Guardians Weekly Science updates and IOP’s Physics world newsletter and I read some of the articles I understand and ignore the rest. I couldn’t really turn up at class ready to discuss a blog I had only just started reading and, if I’m honest, I’ve always worried that the stuff I read in the IOP newsletter is pretty dry if you’re not a physicist. (The IOP blog is fun though!)

Then I wondered. I don’t read Blogs, but I do watch Vlogs… well I don’t really – my partner does and I’ll watch a couple through with him every now and again. I have questioned a couple of the things we’ve watched but largely it’s all good fun and interesting.

But before I prepared an email to our lecturer to check whether my suggestion would be acceptable I did a little research, and my research sent me down a rabbit hole of worry.

I was looking into the SciShow, created by the ‘Vlog brothers’ John and Hank Green, it’s an example of a relatively widely respected Science Show. Hank trained as a scientist and the topics seem to be fairly well researched, although I did find it hard to find information about how this is done and who by. But… in 2013 Myles Power writes a blog about ‘the biased views of Hank Green and Scichow’. Now I happen to know from watching Vlogbrothers that the brothers father was at one time the Florida State Director of the Nature Conservancy (Hank Green ref in ‘why bullets are good for the environment‘). It’s relatively easy to see where and why these views have developed. Scishow responds quite reasonably to the criticism and a further video is released. But here we have an example of the science around a highly important subject being selectively chosen and biasedly reported without any question or peer review of those presenting it.

When I questioned how many millions of viewers watched Scishow as compared to reading blogs the picture worsened. If you google ‘best science blog’ one of the first on the list is geekwrapped.com’s 20 best Science blogs not what I asked, but you know – internets. The list includes I am pleased to say, the IOP’s physics blog, but it also includes IFLScience. Which, whilst I really enjoy reading the comedy sections has published biased views and what I would consider to be some questionable science.. I’ve seen illustrations and examples of basic physics I don’t like but a specific example is highlighted by Brian Koberlain where a series of articles first promote then deny an impact on climate change of a piece of published science that in the original press release, had nothing to do with climate change!

There follows about a month later an article debating the ability of science to communicate. All three articles are published on IFLScience! If you read the small print at the bottom you’ll see that all three articles have different authors. But I wonder if people realise that what they are reading is a tiny bit of study and a massive amount of random journalistic opinion and ‘fill in the gaps’? It’s certainly not made clear on the main site.

Returning to the 3rd article the bit I love is in the where the writer blames the confusion on the Royal Astronomical Society releasing a press release that didn’t link the studied science (which was about the sun) directly to its affects on climate change – commenting that journalists rushed to fill in the blanks. The Telegraph have printed a small apology in italics at the end of their original article on the press release confirming that

CORRECTION: An earlier version of this article inaccurately stated that scientists have predicted bitterly cold winters in the 2030s, “similar to freezing conditions of the late 17th century”. In fact, the research focused solely on solar activity, and did not made any prediction about its possible future climate effects. We are happy to make this clear.”

IFLScience completely ignore their own attention grabbing headline ‘we could be heading into a mini ice age’.

My poor opinions of this site have not been remedied.

On the other hand I still really enjoy Scishow, as mentioned before most of its facts are well researched and it engages a huge community with science.

You need to take both of these sites with a pinch of salt, and what if you don’t know that? How do you find out? Even a quick internet hunt suggests that IFLScience can be trusted: Media bias factcheck report IFLScience as ‘high’ if ‘left from center biased’ in regards the quality of their reporting.

What I’m concerned about is that there is no real ‘peer review’ process on the internet. You hope that a scientist who knows the science spots the error or the bias and picks up on it and that the original creator responds appropriately, with some definite link to the original piece so the error doesn’t spread. But really… in all the internet how can we trust this as a viable method of ensuring ‘truth’ or at least a minimalisation of errors?

On 9th October this year the ‘about’ section on Youtube reports SciShow as having joined in Oct 2011 and since then having 731,483,249 views

According to a couple of statistics sites iflscience has 14.1million visitors per month and SciShow has apparently 8.5Million views per month.

 

At this rate all I can ponder is; is all the argument about presentation of science in education and peer reviewed papers irrelevant? Our teachers and universities may debate the curriculum and delivery of science, but are the really our source of information anymore?

 

 

 

 

 

https://mylespower.co.uk/2013/02/25/the-biased-views-of-hank-green-and-scishow/

https://www.geekwrapped.com/the-20-best-science-blogs

http://www.iflscience.com/environment/we-could-be-heading-mini-ice-age-2030/

http://www.iflscience.com/environment/no-we-aren-t-heading-mini-ice-age/

http://www.iflscience.com/environment/mini-ice-age-hoopla-giant-failure-science-communication/

http://adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/2014ApJ…795…46S

https://mediabiasfactcheck.com/ifl-science/

https://www.thinkwithgoogle.com/marketing-resources/the-science-behind-scishows-youtube-success/

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/science/11733369/Earth-heading-for-mini-ice-age-within-15-years.html

Dreams, loss and the test of the senses

Last night I dreamt I had my Badger back.

Badger was the Border Collie l had from a pup who died, of natural causes but rather young and rather traumatically in June.

It was already a bad dream. I hadn’t been able to find my partner and was sitting on my parents dining room floor. When there was Badger, actually really there. l was able to pick him up, hold him, and smell him, feel his fur and warmth. He hadn’t died he’d been lost something I’d always been scared of. Then I realised he was hurting, there was a hole in his side, he was missing an organ. Logic kicked in and he was gone. In the dream cried so had l woke up still crying

The thing is that I’d been so exited the day before. Starting my first week of studies and finding that my interests were formulating into a clearer single concept. Why and how do people understand or misunderstand science? What was the foundation of their understanding or lack of it? I was proclaiming the need to study as I didn’t understand how intelligent people could hold such remarkable views. As if I had no experience of this myself – how incredibly hypocritical.

Questions arise of what we mean by belief, trust, knowledge. Why should we trust your observations and deductions when we can’t trust the observations of our own senses? We dare to tell a mother how to care for her child when we still cannot tell her why she cries? We mock an astrologer whilst a physicist goes to church?

From an optical illusion that can fool us that large is small and near is far to the far more fundamental; Fear, grief, those things which affect us so greatly they can affect our physical senses. I can still smell Badger. A memory overrides the reality of the room I’m in. Perhaps this is my subconcious reminding me that l do understand some of this. That I can’t go into study blindfolded and without bias. Perhaps I shouldn’t have eaten late or watched animal programs before bed. Either way, these are realities of life that I must consider if I am to make any realistic understanding of why we think the way we do about Science.

 

is it just science…. not the beginning

I’ve been wanting to blog about science, science education and communication since I started teaching.

But I couldn’t

Because I was teaching

And there’s professionalism… and privacy laws… and all of that sort of thing.

Also the subject makes me crazy and I tend to get really really cross about stuff, which can be dull when you’re in the depths of it and solutions just don’t seem possible.

This, plus one hundred and one other aspects, led to me quitting the education system (eventually – I tried in 2015 and finally managed in 2017) as a teacher, to become a student.

I’ve sold my house and am self-funding my studies in order to find out what they hell is going on…

On Monday I start at University College London in the Science and Technology Studies department. The one ‘required reading’ book we have been given has already suffered violent remonstrations due to my general rising rage at the world. I am ridiculously excited and also mildly terrified. I have little idea of what to expect so shall be calm and quiet and ‘all ears’ for as long as I possibly can.

This blog section will be dedicated to my studies, things that interest me in that regards but also to science in general. Mostly in order to practice my own writing and communication skills before becoming all judgemental about others…

So it didn’t begin here originally, but it all begins here now.

A Scotch Snap part 4 – driving downhill

Ta ra for now!

 

After excellent breakfast fuel I left the bothy where Kate was staying with her brother Tris (and Fraser – the best of luck and I do hope the weather improves / you’re not standing in a bog for too long..)

As I drove North through Crianlairch I was pretty certain something was wrong.

I pulled over, realising of course that I now had no phone signal, to check the front tyres. They were fine. The back tyre was not fine. Being double axle the inner wheel had basically been keeping the van off the ground as the hole torn through the outer tyre was enormous. I couldn’t call for help and there wasn’t far to go before the next small town, where I might at least be able to change for the spare. So I limped the van down the road until my mobile bleeped and I was able to get a faint signal. I managed to find a local garage and they, brilliantly, had both the tyres and the time to sort out the van. Being 6 minutes down the road we limped on until we reached our haven. The van was whisked off, tyre changed and pressures checked and I was back on route in under an hour.

Soon after this I found myself driving through the first (of many) places I will be heading back to when I return; the beautiful Glen Ogle. Here I sat in the van, watching the rain and clouds whilst gazing longingly at my bouldering book and the vast range of crags around.

 

At the very end of Loch Lubnaig, opposite the remains of an old chapel and watched over by two beautiful highland cattle is St. Brides Wall. The sun came out for just long enough for me to run over and play for 30mins hunting for bouldering routes and blackberries. It was so wet I had bothered with neither shoes or bouldering mat so enjoyed trying out my balance on low moves in my very solid hiking boots – all good fun.

I took the long road out through the Trossachs via Loch Katrine. The Loch Pier is somewhat touristy but other than that I couldn’t have asked for a more beautiful drive. The Queen Elizabeth road is a delight and gentle driving in a wonderful landscape.

Then, after a brief stop at the Glen Goyne Distillery (I literally stuck my head in and out – whiskey distilleries will have to be for a return trip), I headed to Glasgow.

Driving through the metropolis was an interesting experience. Glasgow is built to impress and even the areas which should be more suburban feel like they have an air of industry. I was here to see family rather than to explore, so found parking near my cousins and spent a very lovely evening with Mark, Anna and their two little ones. I’d given them very little notice of my visit so rather than staying had planned to stop further south from Glasgow at the Old Stable Inn at Beattie. This gave me a headstart in the morning and a very comfortable nights rest. The Inn is lovely and they are happy for campervans to stay as long as you pop in for a meal or a drink and leave details with them.

I didn’t want to drive the next day, but was excited to be making my next ‘last minute’ family stop at my cousin Catherines in Macclesfield. I was so happy to still be in Scotland when I woke up and spent the morning in Moffat, stopping for coffee, toffee and at their wonderful bakery. Wanting one last jaunt and googling  ‘Castle’ I drove the short distance to Lochmaben. This turned out to be the seat of Robert the Bruce and I enjoyed a rather brisk walk around the Castle Lake before commiting myself back to the van.

 

 

I actually love this drive. The M74/M6 is a beautiful stretch of motorway, particularly when you get into and through the Lake District. Unoriginally, although I will nearly always spend a little more time trying to get off road and stopping in smaller villages or towns, I throughly enjoy stopping at Tebay services. It fulfills my weird inherent feeling that travelling south is like driving downhill. And they do really good snacks.

By the time I got to Catherine and Andy’s I was very grateful to be stopping at theirs. Their house is beautiful and relaxing, despite continuous improvements being made by Andys fair hand! I felt incredibly guilty when I realised how close they were to the Peaks, and also very sad that a stones throw from the crags and I still wouldn’t be climbing. But I wouldn’t have exchanged the company for anything.

The third family day involved me driving down to the Malvern hills to meet Beccy, Mim and the boys for a walk, and proved that you can go all the way to Scotland, and still be amazed and delighted to walk so close to your family home.

Unsurprisingly by the time I got back on the road to Mim and Jonts in Wales I was absolutely exhausted. I was suffering a real lull whilst trying to get in touch with friends in London and regain some enthusiasm for the coming year there. Most of this was due to being tired. Road trips are wonderful but they are also dangerous, they move your mind away and leave you so tired it is hard to reconcile your return. In the future I would do as I had originally planned, share the driving or make sure that I at least had a couple of days in one location in between coming and going.

Then, as I was really struggling, I was chased down the road by a really tall man in a tiny blue car. After looping the van so I could see that it was one of our longest standing and bestest friends Evan I was delighted, and it was so lovely to catch up (briefly – on the side of the terrifying A40), that it lifted me out of my mood almost entirely.

On the road!

Today is all about rest and review; write my blog, look through some photos, smile at how wonderful if brief a trip it has been. Then tomorrow perhaps I will be prepared to face the world again.

A Scotch Snap part 3 – Loch Lomond and the Highlands

Road to Loch Lomond

Dunure was too wet.
But the weather looked better further north and it might be that I could do some bouldering later, so we set off again.

I hadn’t had much sleep and being on road we really wanted to have a bit of a wash before starting the day so we headed for the nearest place that might be open on a Sunday.

Ayr is an interesting town, akin to a Brighton of the North – although I think more the rich and retired or the out of city holiday beache town rather than the hipster hippie Brighton of today. Heading, rather over hopeful, to a cafe in Ayr involved us being turned away by the proprietor with a look of ‘Dear lord people, why’ as we disturbed his morning preparations. We’d not noticed the change in opening times scribbled in pencil on the door…
So we had a much nicer breakfast in the van and with a toilet stop at a supermarket headed onto the fast road North.

The land rolls out and is gentle as you drive towards Glasgow, although things are still deceptive and the city is hidden until you are nearly in it. Suddenly it stretches before you, The mountains rising up behind. And then landscape be damned you have to navigate four roads converging as one, some weird double back that insists you are on a different motorway to the one you were on and suddenly 11 lanes becomes 2 and you are out and through. Heading through the valley to The Trossacks and Loch Lomond. According to Google merely 20mins away.

We stopped in the village of Luss, which we agreed (with every sign) was pretty. But too touristy after the quiet of Galloway and my morning coffee was still warm.

So we headed further up the Loch, to Firkin and then Inveruglas. Here we could get an overnight permit for £3, use the toilets and sit in the lovely cafe. I am more than happy to pay for a permit for a motorhome/campervan. The facilities are worth it and you’re taking up parking space, and if it helps support the rangers I feel £3 is definitely worthwhile. I have little idea how this impacts the ‘wild camping’ debate but actually feel it’s a different issue and should be treated as such.

the viewing platform – hidden in the woods

It hadn’t stopped raining.

Kate made lunch of wraps and salad but even after food I was low and just needed 20 minutes with my head down to get some energy back. This worked wonders and I was totally up for sitting in the cafe, writing and knitting for the next hour waiting for the rain to pass.

Still to wet for bouldering it was fine for a walk if we wrapped up really well. We did so and oddly colour coordinated set off up to the Sloy Dam. This is around 11km and 300m of ascent up very gentle paths. I was yenning to go up the mountain but the low cloud and risk of whiteout would not have made for a sensible afternoon stroll. The Dam valley is deep and weathered, rock falls have been frequent in the distant past and we could only guess at the height of the peaks hidden in the cloud above us. The feeling that you are surrounded is only heightened when the dam appears, solid and brooding, black brown against the deep valley green.

After getting very wet and chatting with some baby cows (whilst keeping an eye out for mum) we headed back.

It is wonderful to get back somewhere that is warm and dry. Which, leaving our wet clothes in the cab and using the hob to make a hot toddy, the van is.

 

After an outstanding dinner we settled down to knitting and listening to my daft music collection before a not so early night whilst the rain drummed on the roof. Perhaps tomorrow will be dry.

North to Glen Coe

It’s still raining

I decide to go left again. Actually I Google maps search for Whiskey and get a pin by Loch Funeral. This takes us up into the mountains past Arrochar which is where I refused to walk to the day before, so it looks like a good detour.

Highland cattle at Loch Long

As we set off the weather just gets worse. What we can see of Loch Long is beautiful but by the time we get into the small town of Inveraray (small but with castle and jail) on Loch Fyne the rain and mist have set in. Facing the storm we go gift hunting. The rain ups its game from summer shower to solid downpour and visibility is reduced to ‘grey’. Hunting and gathering has been completed an outstanding breakfast has been consumed and whisky is safely on board so we set off again.

Loch Fyne… apparently

We are, with unfathomable optimism, heading to the Glen Coe Mountain centre so that ‘when’ the weather lifts we will be up in the mountains to get the best views. I am increasingly concerned that I will have driven to the Highlands in order to see fog.

Kate insists she would be happy to walk, despite sopping wet shoes, but on nearly losing a van door to the wind I make a beeline for the cafe.

After the cafe we make it safely the 100yrds back to the van. Unwilling to go outside but still unwilling to give up we attempt to sit out the weather with knitting.

Then, just as we are due to leave, the rain clears, the clouds lift and the sun comes out. We drive the route back to Crianlairch in sheer splendour.


We meet Tris (Kate’s brother) at the bothy in time for sunset and he drives us to the Tyndrum Inn for our first pub dinner. I get to be a passenger and have the Haggis Neaps and Tatties I’ve been longing for – covered in thick creamy whiskey sauce!
The moon rises on the Bothy for our last evening. Although I’m in Scotland another day I am heading south and it feels like the ending of the trip as I’m leaving Kate here. This had perhaps been one of the longer ‘lifts’ I’ve given a friend. The van has stood the test well and although I’m happy enough to have the space to myself I’m delighted how comfortable the space and the company has been. I’ll see Kate again in London. For now sleep then onwards in the morning.

Scotch Snap Part 2 – Dumfries and Galloway to Ayrshire

We woke underneath the ruins of Sweetheart Abbey to a misty and crisp clear morning. I hadn’t slept well and Kate made coffee before setting out for a run. That gave me time to sit and tidy for the day’s traveling.

We weren’t 100% sure about our route but we were thinking about maybe going to the Isle of Arran if we could. So we were torn between driving around the coast of the Solway Firth or driving through the Forest of Galloway – beaches or mountains?! So hard!
We decided to navigate using the force and turned left out of the Abbey. This took us to the beautiful Sandyhills beach. A spot beautiful for bouldering and in our case breakfast.

As we had found such an exemplary beach we felt we could abandon the coast road temporarily and I decided to take a road heading North towards New Galloway for the purposes of getting supplies and heading into the Mountains. With two shops (one shut) and a lovely cafe New Galloway made a very pleasant stop for caffeine if not for supplies, but we had enough for lunch (excepting an overflow community cucumber) and decided to head up before we cooked.

On day two we had already reached the usual roadtrip logistic level of ‘when’s the next meal’. Where’s the next bottle of water had happened the day before when we realised I hadn’t filled up the water tank and tried to replenish the 70litres using a 1.5litre bottle before giving in and going to a supermarket.

The road took us up into the Galloway mountain range along past the Clatteringshaws Damn where our first bit of phone signal and a gorgeous view prompted phoning home times; past the ‘Goat park’ (I have no idea but I didn’t see any goats) to a little layby where we pulled sharply in after shrieking ‘waterfall’. This had serious consequences for my earlier attempts at tidying – I will not learn! Luckily nothing broke…

After me scrambling around on rocks trying to get the right picture Kate had been advised of a circular walk we could do before lunch. This took us up above the waterfall to the heathland and an ancient bothy, where sometime past large heads had been carved into stones to watch over the occupants or the land, I would love to know which.

After further uphill and some traipsing through forestry tracks we came back down off the heath into the evergreen woods and back to spot the van hidden amongst the pines beneath the mountain. Beautiful.

Lunch in the van!

From the mountains we returned to the coast, following the coast path and desperately trying to spot Kites – we definitely saw one bird of prey that was of similar size to a Buzzard, but wasn’t a buzzard and I don’t think it was a Kite, but by the time I’d dug out the binoculars it had drifted off again.

We stopped for fuel and a chat to be warned of the road. Thus far the roads had been excellent so I wasn’t too worried. I should have listened. South Ayrshire is a beautiful rolling rumble of hills, stones and haybales but it’s roads are shit. More tidying required 😑

Through the pretty town of Girvan, over the ‘Electri Brae’, a weird uphill / downhill optical illusion we totally failed to notice, we were heading towards the small village of Dunure so I could hunt out some bouldering before the evening.

 

However we detoured to a brown sign to discover a very large car park and a farmhouse with signs to Culzean Castle. Unable but unsurprised to be unable to see the castle we decided to do a short walk down to the coastline. We had become used to a strange tendancy in the Borders for everything to be hidden. After driving through apparent wilderness you would suddenly find yourself amongst low bungalows and then drop down into a town hidden in a valley. Castles are behind tall trees or hill lines, churches hidden in valleys or river bends. Actually it’s not at all surprising when you think about the history of the Borders. Being missed by a large group of angry people who’ve gone 500m the wrong way was probably no bad thing.

On this occasion we were in fact mistaken. We realised, after I’d scrambled out on the rocks to find a way back to the path, that the Castle was really built to be seen from the sea.

 

We were happily distracted exploring the castle and grounds until the sun started to drop low.

This meant that by the time we arrived in Dunure the wind was picking up and the light was dropping leaving our second castle of the day in beautiful splendour.

 

Parking in the town was not really possible if we wanted flat ground so we overnighted off road up the hill. It seemed less windy than the town itself, until around 3am at which point I suspect it was just battering away everywhere.

Waking to the sound of wind and tapping rain at 6.30 my bouldering plans in Dunure looked to be properly scuppered.We’d had beautiful weather for two days but it looked rancid outside and I refused to get out of bed for some time. I had also had a second night of bad sleep and was exhausted still on waking.

We had realised the night before that our Isle of Arran plans were a little enthusiastic – the ferry nearby appeared fully booked (we looked up ferry times for Sunday and it gave us availability on Thursday) and the other ferry, 40miles distant, would take hours to get to due to it being on the wrong bit of land and 152 mile detour to actually get there.

Now we had to decide, face the weather and try to find bouldering in a cave in Dunure? Go climbing in Glasgow? Or get straight up to Loch Lomond and find somewhere we could park up, stay and explore…

I was looking for mountains again and despite the driving the North beckoned

Even too wet to boulder in the cave…

A Scotch Snap – part 1

I had two big trips planned this year, Morocco and Scotland.

Morocco was outstanding and Scotland was going to be the big adventure before properly rejoining the real world and going back to uni.

My plans this year have gradually had to morph and change and things haven’t worked out as I thought; some of the things have been incredibly hard and horribly sad, sometimes some of the best moments of my life. All of it has been different to plans or expectations and I’m glad of that.

But I was damn well going to Scotland.

The conversation with Kate, much shortened, went along the following lines:
‘Scotland is turning out to be a damp squib, everyone has a life, or injuries’
‘I’ll come!’
‘Yay!’

Some time later…. A three week adventure had become a short week/long weekend and the adventure will happen later, because the things I wanted to do I don’t want to do without the people I wanted to do them with… I would have come anyway on my own, however Kate (who has known me for 17years since college and knows I’m a teeny bit eccentric) has decided to come too!

We have no real plans other than; going bouldering somewhere, seeing her brother Tris at some point and visiting a castle. We decided where I would pick her up a day in advance, and on Thursday morning I drove from Gloucester to Oxenholme to do so. So far we have stayed in Skelwith caravan park, which had totally changed my opinion about caravan parks it was a) lovely and b) I saw a red squirrel! We’ve done a sort fell walk/run, had cream tea and strawberries in the van, gone shopping in Ambelside, driven to Galloway and are now in the gorgeous village by Sweetheart Abbey.

This sounds quaint but it’s so named for the Lady who had her husband’s heart embalmed so she could carry it around for 20years until she died and is buried here…
So that’s a day and a half!
Galloway coast and bouldering tomorrow….! ….. probably

South Welsh Wales – sea cliff climbing

You would think that, being scared of sea cliffs, I wouldn’t have spent the last two climbing trips on sea cliffs. But what would I learn from that?

A weekend escape to Swanage with the climbing club gang was a necessary rest from rebuilding the van. I was shattered and after a mini emotional crisis on the Saturday when I thought I was abseiling a) into the sea and b) to the wrong part of the cliff (I wasn’t, we hadn’t); I was happy to call a rest day on Sunday. My balance was a bit shot anyway, probably due to a sinus infection, so I spent my day whittling wood in the sun watching the old crew and new crew rig abseils and spend their vertical day on the rock. I knew I had five days then a whole weeks climbing in Pembroke to look forward to.

A week of very very hard work followed. My parents demonstrated their astonishing skills and endless patience whilst we got the van in a fit state for a week away. Delighted but exhausted the last lock went in place 15 minutes before Kane arrived on the Friday evening. I’m going to do a mini photo log of the build so I’ll not go into details here, but I couldn’t help laughing with delight and amusement when we drove out on the Saturday morning. My Dad is now calling me gypsy rose spectacles. I’m not sure if the last bit was a typo or reference to a very old in joke but it’s sticking.

Delightfully Pembroke is only a couple of hours drive from my folks, making it feel a lot more relaxed than if you’re trekking down from London. This of course meant that we didn’t leave until after lunch and only made it down for Saturday evening. We were meeting Ben there and ended up being overtaken by Gemma (who had trekked down from London) just outside Camarthen. She hadn’t seen the van doors previously but on driving past a kooky looking BT van (what unusual doors!) and receiving a location update from me realised that she was the car in front of us..

We had already planned to stay in the van but on arriving at the slightly unusual (and still being built) bell tent accommodation at Warren farm, on a very very windy day, we were happy to be staying in the van overnight. After finally managing to get a fire and barbecue lit and bearing the cold as long as we could to enjoy the company, it was wonderful to climb into the van and shut the doors and realise the wind and cold and noise were all shut outside, the van was still warm and cosy.

We moved the following day out of the field and in front of the bunkhouse that would be homebase for the week but the van still came in handy for cooking bacon butties and pizzas.. and although we had beds in the bunkhouse the van was home out of choice.

Welsh Weather

 

The weather on the first two days was against us, but only for climbing. The Sea cliffs are spectacular and there is something incredibly eerie about the sea mist. A first days walk gave us a clear view of the slabs we wanted to climb at Flimston, five minutes drive from the bunkhouse. But the rain stopped play. An afternoon of spoon carving and a walk/run in what was really only a light summer wash entertained until pub o’clock and an hearty meal at St. Govan’s Inn. I was regretting my choice of Cawl (Welsh soup) whilst everyone else had gone for surf and turf, until it arrived and it was the sort of soup the spoon stands up vertically in – with a bowl of cheese to melt on top. It was the next day, when we were all together, when it was still wet, that the mists rolled in. Kane and I set off early, walking down to the crag. By the time we got there the troupe had caught up in the car, but as we moved onto the cliffs the mists rolled up, a beautiful if eerie meander through what felt like a completely different world to the day before and climbing was not looking likely. But that was underestimating us. We were now joined by Karl and Debbie and as the mists rose and the rain stopped, and the rock seemed to be relatively dry we set off to Bow Shaped Slab at the end of Flimston bay.

 

Tides, times and the sea

 

I knew there were underlying nerves and I nearly fudged up my abseil, but with Karl watching over me I didn’t (note for climbers: I’d missed my leg loop with the karabiner for the prussic and attached it to a gear loop instead. I actually extend my belay plate using a sling so the prussic can go on the main loop directly underneath it – meaning this slip, which I will now be double checking for, is much less likely).

We had a good couple of hours before we needed to worry about the tide and the rocks at the edge of the slab made easy standing ground, so I felt pretty comfortable as Kane started to climb. Tied into both ropes I knew the sea couldn’t get me, and with Ben and Gemma on my left and Karl and Debbie on the right I felt pretty secure. It was a pretty bleak climb for gear and sketchy for Kane at the top, but I was able to follow up comfortably and loved feeling more and more sure of my feet as I went up.  After a bit of lunch, with the tide coming in and drizzle threatening rain I wasn’t freaking out at all, but I didn’t want to lead under time pressure. So Kane went down again, and we actually got what looked like the nicest route of the three on the slab. It was however the one that meant the belay was lowest and closest to the sea, and the speed of the tide does not account for the size of the waves. Kane was half way up the wall but Ben, being belayed by Gemma, hadn’t even set off when I got hit up to the knees by the first wave. Ben just looked at me with a calm ‘oh’ before setting off. I laughed it off and moved a little further up the rock next to Gemma, complaining about wet feet. Kane was about a third of the way up when I saw Karls face make an ‘oh dear’ look. I was hit full on the side; head, shoulders, knees and toes with salty cold. The look on Karl and Gemmas faces had me laughing, there was nothing I could do about it other than turn my back to the sea when larger waves appeared to be coming in. I got another three full ones before Kane had set up a belay and was absolutely dripping by the time I started climbing. Although there was some talk about another climb, I needed to get back and into the shower.

In hindsight and after a discussion with my parents we definitely need to add sea state i.e. wave height to our pre climb judgements!

Walking, Walk ins, Unexploded Bombs and E1 5b

One of the highlights / oddities of Pembroke is that a large section of the cliffs are only accessible in August due to the use of the land as a firing range for the MOD. The large signs stating ‘do not touch anything, it might explode and kill you’ are not to be misunderstood. It also means there are no roads or parking for a considerable stretch, so gear must be carried a good distance to some of the best climbs. We only walked for 40mins or so, but this is a good way with a trad pack. The cliff path is utterly beautiful, quiet and serene even in the height of the August holiday, it’s a real ‘off route’ location, even ten minutes from the car.

The boys go route finding

A good deal of scrambling and back and forth meandering were required and this never sets me up well, moving across the cliffs listening to the sea bashing beneath you. We found some lovely climbs however and I led a short Severe route; a triumph of returning mojo swiftly followed by bailing out of a second Severe route that traversed out over a massive drop with tiny crumbly holds.

But the highlight of the day was the E1 5b. Starting up the rancid HVS that was going to require me to belay on the wrong side of a greasy rock pool and appeared to have lost a chunk at the base; I was quite happy when Kane backed down and decided to go up the much nicer looking crack next to it. It was a lovely climb, technically hard but where the gear was needed it was there, and the fingertip balancy moves – although they took me a while to work out even on second – were enjoyable.

I knew if I could do it Gemma could, and she seemed super confident climbing with Ben. She’d already set her sights on an E1 (after two weeks earlier wondering if maybe sticking to Severe or VS for a bit would be a good plan…) and it was a great one to do. She climbed it smooth and clean – first E1! I am super super impressed.

Afraid of the sea

I love St Davids, the coastline is beautiful, a little calmer and less forbidding than that around Pembroke Dock, but still impressive.The colours are spectacular; the rock is rarely grey and ranges from rich purples to gold, with the deep green gorse, and multicoloured wildflowers topping the crags and the steel grey blue sea beneath. We climbed first at Craig Cairfai and then moved on around the coastline.

Debbie conquers Amorican

I was feeling nervous and a little under pressure to get my mojo back, which is an entirely unfair sentiment as I cannot ask for a more supportive and undemanding group of friends, the pressure was mostly of my own making. A grassy edge was made safer by Kane with a pre-prepared belay and we abseiled down to a hanging belay in a small purple cove. This was whilst being watched by the whole crew as the crag they had aimed for had apparently collapsed into the sea so they’d opted for sunbathing instead!

I got to the bottom of the line, descended further to rescue a fallen karabiner and scrambled back up above the incoming tide, slurping steadily at the rocks. Doing this I realised one very interesting thing; I am far more scared of the sea than I am of the rock. So even with everyone watching I set off to lead up what was the grottiest, grassy, chossy climb I’ve done since the rock fall in Morroco. Throughout the climb I was picking off loose rock thinking ‘this is the last thing I need’, and wondering if I could get in another piece of gear and belay Kane up, but just trying one step at a time and moving a little higher to see. Until at the top, realising that the stones underneath the steep turf were entirely unstable and praising Kane for having put an extended rope belay in place I was able to top out to the cheering from the other side of the cove. Even nervous the climbing was fine. I was then able to belay Kane up just before the tide started covering his feet…

Rest days

The others had another days climbing in Pembroke, but as we had another night in Wales we decided on a rest day with climbing on Friday. We’re not very good at this and did too many things (Bosherton craft center, Barafundle Bay, Best Fish and Chips in Pendle) so by the time we arrived at the Gower I was exhausted. A wonderful evening on Oxwich bay but bad mussels turned our last day into a ‘rest day’ as well. We drove over to Rhossili and being us a ‘rest day’ involved a long walk, a brilliant bouldering session in ‘The Canyon’ on fall bay, before scrambling around and up the climbs on Kings Wall to go and see the Giants Cave. Kane has a new target – getting out of an E6 6b blowhole in the top of the cave, and I was definitely getting my balance back. We were able fortunately to wait another 10minutes and then the tide had gone out far enough to skip the scramble down and run around the headland along the beach. Icecream and lunch before we got in the van and headed home.

I feel as if I’m just starting to edge out of a bit of a hollow and desperately want to spend the next few weeks climbing. If I could get to a cliff right now I would. But I have other adventures in place. There’s no rush. Climbing is a lifelong thing I think, once you’ve got it you’ve got it good. I’m aiming for E2 in my forties, E3 by my fifties. No biggy, taking my time…

 

My two favourite hobos

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